For commercial and industrial photographers like myself, spending most days photographing construction sites and mining operations hundreds of meters underground, a super-telephoto lens might seem like an odd purchase. But here’s the thing—I also love shooting wildlife, particularly birds in flight. And after a week and a half with Canon’s RF 200-800mm, I’ve been testing it extensively at the wetlands north of Melbourne to see if it lives up to the hype.
This isn’t the newest lens on the market, but it’s new to me. And rather than rehashing the same technical specifications you’ll find in every other review, I wanted to share real-world experience: what it’s actually like to handhold over two kilograms of glass while tracking fast-moving swallows, how the autofocus performs in challenging situations, and whether that F9 maximum aperture at 800mm is truly the limitation everyone claims it is.
The short answer? This lens is very, very good. But let me show you exactly how good with real images captured over multiple shooting sessions.
First Impressions: The Technical Reality
Before we get into the field work, let’s address the elephant in the room—or rather, the things people constantly debate about this lens.
Price and Build Quality
Here in Australia, the RF 200-800mm retails for around $2,700-$2,900 AUD. That’s serious money, but for a lens reaching from 200mm to 800mm, it’s remarkably competitive. It’s not an L-series lens, but it doesn’t carry a consumer-grade price tag either.
Is it as sharp as an L lens? Almost. I want to quote fellow Victorian wildlife photographer Duade Paton here, who runs an exceptional YouTube channel dedicated to bird photography. His assessment is that this lens is “good enough sharp”—and I completely agree with that characterization. It’s not quite as sharp as my RF 100-500mm with its fluorite coatings, but you’re getting 800mm of reach in a package that won’t require a second mortgage. Well, maybe it will but not as much as with the RF 100-500… Ultimately to be fair to Canon I believe they have produced a superb lens at a not unreasonable price point…
The Controversial Design Choices
The Non-Removable Tripod Collar: This is probably the most complained-about feature. Yes, it’s permanently attached, which makes packing for travel less convenient. But honestly, It doesn’t bother me. I use it as a carrying handle when moving between locations, and it’s actually quite comfortable for handholding the lens during shooting sessions, although I have to say I have quite large hands.
Manual Focus Ring Position: Not ideal. The placement makes manual focusing awkward, but let’s be realistic—95% of the time you’re using autofocus with a lens like this anyway.
Not fully weather sealed: Compared to an L series lens. This is worth noting, especially if you frequently shoot in challenging conditions. When the heavens open, you need to be cautious. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s definitely something to consider.
Zoom Speed: Yes, zooming from 200mm to 800mm takes time if you’re just rotating the barrel. My solution? Turn the camera body while zooming simultaneously. It’s become second nature and for me at least it mitigates the issue.
The Aperture Question
Let’s address the F6.3-9 aperture range right now, because it’s probably the specification that causes the most hand-wringing. At 200mm you’re at F6.3, and at 800mm you’re at F9. On paper, that sounds limiting—and yes, it means less light reaches your sensor compared to faster prime lenses.
But here’s the reality: when you’re shooting wildlife at 800mm, even F9 produces beautiful subject separation if you position yourself correctly. Background blur isn’t just about aperture—it’s about focal length, subject distance, background distance, and what’s actually in that background. At 800mm, you have plenty of working distance to create gorgeous bokeh.
The bigger consideration is light gathering. Under bright Australian conditions, F9 is perfectly manageable. Would I hesitate to take this into a dark rainforest to photograph hummingbirds? Absolutely. But for most wildlife shooting scenarios, especially outdoors, it’s more than adequate.
Teleconverter Compatibility: Pushing to 1120mm
One of the standout features of this lens is full compatibility with Canon’s 1.4x and 2x teleconverters. And unlike the RF 100-500mm, which restricts your zoom range when a teleconverter is attached, the 200-800mm gives you the full focal length range.
With the 1.4x attached, you’re shooting at 280-1120mm. That’s extraordinary reach.
The sulfur-crested cockatoo images you’ll see were captured with the 1.4x teleconverter, pushing me out to 1120mm. I was shooting at 1/2500s at ISO 8000, working between shade and dappled sunlight. The image quality held up remarkably well, though while shooting some black fronted dotterel’s on another day while lying prone in the reeds by the lakefront I did encounter atmospheric haze issues—not the lens’s fault, just the reality of shooting through moisture and heat.




Handholding Performance: Weight vs Capability
At 2,050 grams (just over two kilograms), this lens is substantial. When you first pick it up, it feels manageable. After a few hours of tracking swallows in flight? You definitely notice the weight.
But here’s what matters: it’s absolutely capable of delivering sharp, handheld shots of birds in flight. The key is understanding that you’re not shooting at 800mm for most of these captures. You’re typically working around 600mm as you acquire and track the bird, then zooming into 800mm if you’re lucky and can maintain tracking.



Image Stabilization
Canon rates the IS at 5.5 stops, which sounds fantastic on paper. In practice, it is really good—but you still need proper technique. Over two kilograms of glass doesn’t stabilize itself through technology alone. For the fast-moving swallows, I found myself shooting at very high shutter speeds (around 1/4000s) to freeze the action. The IS helps, but fundamental handholding technique still matters.
One quirk worth noting: when shooting video, the image stabilization doesn’t fully engage until you hit record. It’s something to keep in mind when framing your shot.

Autofocus Performance: Nano USM Brilliance

The RF 200-800mm uses Canon’s Nano USM system, and I have to say—it’s brilliant. Fast, quiet, and impressively accurate. Paired with the R5 Mark II’s eye detection and 30 frames per second burst rate, you’re capturing wildlife moments that would have been impossible just a few years ago.

That said, autofocus isn’t perfect. There are still frustrating moments when, despite having eye detection enabled and using back-button autofocus, the camera suddenly decides to switch focus to the background or to something in front of your subject—usually just as they’re about to do something interesting. It’s the nature of the technology, not specific to this lens.

The Missing Feature: Unlike the RF 100-500mm, this lens doesn’t have a focus limiter switch. If your lens is hunting between near and far subjects, you can’t restrict the focus range. It’s not a dealbreaker, but I found myself instinctively reaching for it in the first few days. Worth being aware of.



Real World Shooting: The Wetlands Sessions
Over the past week and a half, I’ve spent multiple sessions at the wetlands north of Melbourne putting this lens through its paces. Here’s what I discovered:
Birds in Flight: The Ultimate Test
Shooting swallows—those incredibly fast, erratic little birds—is arguably one of the most challenging scenarios for any lens and camera combination. At 30 frames per second with the R5 Mark II, I’m capturing entire sequences of behavior that happen too fast for the human eye to process.

One memorable sequence shows a swallow feeding her young mid-flight. The entire interaction takes maybe half a second: she approaches while flying, the chick reaches up, food transfers, and she veers away. At 30fps, I captured the approach, the moment of contact, the transfer, and her departure. These are moments that would have been nearly impossible to reliably capture with my old 5D Mark III or 5DSR.

Yes, there’s an element of “spray and pray”—you do end up with hundreds of frames to sort through. But you’re genuinely documenting wildlife behavior that unfolds too quickly for conscious reaction time.

Static and Perched Birds: The Sweet Spot
Where this lens truly shines is with perched birds and wildlife at medium distances. I positioned myself near a log and tree branch at the lake’s edge where the local red rumped parrots) were coming down to drink.

Because it was a sunny day, the water’s surface was acting as a mirror, reflecting beautiful light back onto the birds. With the long focal length, I could sit back at a comfortable distance, undisturbed, and capture natural behavior. The reach of 800mm meant I wasn’t intruding on their space while still filling the frame beautifully.

The red-rumped parrots provided particularly stunning opportunities—males and females coming down for drinks, the occasional bath, all against that gorgeous mirrored water surface.


The Butcherbird Incident
One of my favorite sequences involved a butcherbird getting too close to a swallow nest. The parent swallows were clearly annoyed and kept swooping to drive it away from their young. Leaning casually on a railing, I simply fired away at 30fps and captured the entire interaction—the swooping attacks, the butcherbird’s reactions, the protective behavior. This is where the combination of reach, autofocus, and high frame rates makes modern wildlife photography so rewarding.

Sharpness: The 700mm+ Debate
Some reviewers have noted a drop-off in sharpness past 700mm, with 800mm being noticeably softer. I’m going to be honest: I haven’t noticed this in my real-world shooting. Maybe I’m not pixel-peeping hard enough, or maybe it’s simply not showing up in the way I use the lens and process my images.
The images I’m getting at 800mm are more than sharp enough for my needs—and that’s what matters. As Dwight Peyton said: “good enough sharp.” For printing, for web use, for portfolio work—it delivers.
Minimum Focus Distance: Plan Your Approach

Here’s a practical consideration: minimum focusing distance changes depending on your zoom position. At 200mm, you can focus as close as 80cm. At 800mm, you need to be at least 3.3m away to achieve focus.

This matters more than you might think. When I almost stepped on a brown snake during one session (welcome to Australia), being able to quickly snap at 200mm before backing away was crucial. With the 100-500mm and a 1.4x teleconverter attached, the minimum focus distance would have been much more limiting.
Atmospheric Considerations: Get Closer When Possible

Here’s something I learned quickly: yes, having 800mm is fantastic, and the temptation to just stand back and zoom all the way in is always there. But the better approach—when possible—is to move closer to your subject and then shoot at 800mm.

Why? You’re working through less atmosphere. On one particularly beautiful, bright day, there was significant heat haze and moisture in the air. And at the wetlands, there were approximately 988 million biting bugs between me and my subjects (slight exaggeration, but only slight).


The closer I got to my subject, the less atmosphere I shot through, resulting in sharper, cleaner images. It’s simple physics, but it’s easy to forget when you have all that reach at your fingertips.
Video Performance: Stable and Capable
The image stabilization works very well for video, though reportedly not quite to the same standard as when shooting stills. That said, I captured some lovely footage of those red-rumped parrots bathing, with the male waiting patiently nearby for his turn.
My technique: seated in the bushes beside the lake, elbows resting on my knees, camera and lens held comfortably but firmly. Shooting at 120fps helps smooth out any tiny movements on my part, giving that beautiful steady slow-motion feel. The IS definitely helps, but again—proper technique matters when you’re holding over two kilograms of gear.
The 100-500mm Comparison: Which Would I Take?

This is the question I keep asking myself: if I were going on safari and could only take one lens, would it be the RF 200-800mm or my trusty RF 100-500mm (with the 1.4x teleconverter)?

After only a week and a half with the 200-800mm compared to the many hours I’ve logged with the 100-500mm, I honestly can’t answer definitively yet. Each has its strengths:

The RF 200-800mm wins for:
- Versatility: shooting from 200mm rather than starting at 300mm (with the 1.4x on the 100-500mm)
- Close-up flexibility: that brown snake encounter wouldn’t have worked with the 100-500mm + teleconverter
- No teleconverter to attach/remove
- Full zoom range with teleconverters attached

The RF 100-500mm wins for:
- Weight (easier to handhold for extended periods)
- Slightly sharper at equivalent focal lengths
- Focus limiter switch
- Fluorite coatings
- Better maximum aperture (F7.1 at 500mm vs F9 at 800mm)
Taking both would be ideal, but the weight would be prohibitive. For now, the 200-800mm’s versatility is genuinely compelling, especially for situations where wildlife behavior happens quickly and unpredictably.


Processing Example: Red-Rumped Parrot
Let me walk you through one edit to show you what these files are capable of in post-production.
I’m working with image 299 from a sequence of a red-rumped parrot coming in to land on the log, wings beautifully flared. Shot at 1/4000s at ISO 6100—high ISO, so denoising will be necessary.
The Edit
Cropping: First, I crop in tighter on the bird, excluding the reflection (I have that in another frame). I want the composition balanced and focused on the bird’s approach.

Basic Adjustments:
- Exposure: Lifted slightly to brighten overall
- Contrast: Increased to add punch
- Highlights: Pulled back to protect the brightest areas
- Shadows: Lifted very slightly
- Whites: Pushed up
- Blacks: Pulled down (this push-pull creates that contrasty pop I prefer)
- Vibrance: +15
- Saturation: +5 to +6 (global adjustment)

Denoising: Applied Lightroom’s denoise function directly (I also use Topaz Labs, but Lightroom handles this nicely on its own)
Sharpening: Using my standard technique—hold Option/Alt while dragging the masking slider to visualize where sharpening will be applied (white = sharpened, black = unsharpened). I want it primarily on the bird, not the background. Sharpening amount: 90-95 points.

Lens Corrections: Remove chromatic aberration and enable profile corrections (which removes any optical anomalies Adobe has profiled for this lens)
Vignette: Reapplied to draw the eye back to the subject

Masking Work
Select Subject: Lightroom automatically selects the bird, but also picks up some of the log in the background. I subtract using the background selection tool, then manually brush away any remaining areas I don’t want affected.
For the bird mask:
- Exposure: Increased slightly
- Highlights: Reduced to bring back feather detail (especially visible on the left bird)
- Whites: Pushed up
- Blacks: Pulled down for subtle pop
- Texture: Increased (micro-contrast for feather detail)
- Clarity: Increased (mid-tone contrast)

Localized Brush – Under Wings: A new brush mask specifically under the wings of the approaching bird to lift shadow detail subtly. I also brushed a bit on the belly and beak. Very subtle adjustments, but they make a noticeable difference.

Before and After
The transformation is significant. The before image is well-exposed but flat. The after has dimension, pop, beautiful feather detail, and that gorgeous sense of the bird caught in mid-approach, wings spread, about to land.


Final Verdict: Is the RF 200-800mm Worth It?
After a week and a half of intensive use, I’m genuinely impressed with this lens. Is it perfect? No—no lens is. But it delivers exceptional value for wildlife photographers who need serious reach without carrying multiple lenses.
You should seriously consider this lens if:
- You want versatility: 200-800mm covers an enormous range
- You shoot wildlife in good to moderate lighting
- You value the ability to use teleconverters across the full zoom range
- You want a single lens solution for wildlife photography
- You’re comfortable with the weight for handholding
You might look elsewhere if:
- You primarily shoot in very low light (that F9 maximum aperture will hurt)
- You need absolute maximum sharpness at all focal lengths
- Weight is a critical concern for extended shooting sessions
- You need weather sealing for challenging environments
For me, coming from a background of commercial and industrial photography where I rarely use super-telephoto lenses, this has opened up an entirely new dimension of creative possibility. The ability to document wildlife behavior, capture birds in flight, and explore the natural world around Melbourne has been genuinely rewarding.
The question of whether this replaces my RF 100-500mm remains unanswered—I need more time with both to make that call. But as a standalone wildlife lens, the RF 200-800mm delivers professional results and opens up creative opportunities that justify the investment.
Technical Details
- Lens: Canon RF 200-800mm f/6.3-9 IS USM
- Camera Body: Canon EOS R5 Mark II
- Shooting Mode: 30fps electronic shutter for birds in flight
- Typical Shutter Speed: 1/2500s – 1/4000s for fast-moving subjects
- ISO Range: 6100-8000 for the images shown
- Image Stabilization: 5.5 stops (rated)
- Processing: Adobe Lightroom Classic with local adjustments and masks
- Teleconverter Used: Canon Extender RF 1.4x (selected images)
💬 QUESTION FOR YOU
Have you added the RF 200-800mm to your kit, or are you still on the fence? If you’ve been using it for a while, what’s your experience been like? Are you happy with the performance, or have you moved to a different lens combination?
And for those choosing between this and the RF 100-500mm—what factors are most important to you? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below.
WATCH THE FULL TUTORIAL
For the complete review with all the field footage, additional image examples, and the full processing walkthrough, watch the video above.
Thank you so much for following along. If you found this review helpful, please like, subscribe, and share it with anyone considering this lens or passionate about wildlife photography. There are many more processing tutorials and occasional gear reviews coming throughout the year.
Once again, thank you—and keep shooting.